Peruvian Culinary Journey at Nazka Amsterdam blending with the wines of Bodega Otronia.
19-03-2025
Nestled in the heart of Amsterdam, Nazka offers a contemporary view on Peruvian cuisine, blending traditional flavors with modern techniques. The restaurant recently hosted an exclusive dinner and wine tasting, featuring selections from Bodega Otronia, a pioneering winery from Patagonia, Argentina. The evening was hosted by Sommelier Alessandro Tondini, who was honored as Sommelier of the Year 2025 by the prestigious Proefschrift Association. His expertise guided us through the complexities of pairing Patagonian wines with Peruvian dishes.
About Bodega Otronia
Bodega Otronia is located at latitude 45°33' S in Chubut, Argentinia, in one of the southernmost wine regions of the world. The winery focuses on organic and biodynamic principles, utilizing the natural surroundings and harsh climate to produce wines with a unique profile. The combination of cold, dry climates, powerful winds, and rocky soils contributes to the precision and freshness of their wines. This winery has made its mark by crafting high-quality wines from vineyards that push the boundaries of viticulture.
We were served a delicious dinner in Nazka (see the menu) and the dishes were paired with the Bodega Otronia wines. Despite the individual excellence of Bodega Otronia's wines, the initial pairings with Nazka's Peruvian dishes presented challenges. The unique flavor profiles of the wines did not harmonize seamlessly with the vibrant and diverse flavors characteristic of Peruvian cuisine. Dishes like Ceviche de Topinambur and Pesca y Mole Indio were particularly difficult to pair, with the citrusy and spicy elements clashing with the minerality and acidity of the wines.
After talking to the owner Raul Lansink we agreed that there were two different tastings: the wine and the food. Therefore we evaluated the Argentinian wines seperately and the same was done with the food.
But, as we were there, we did try to combine some of the wines with the delicious and beautifully prepared food together with the sommelier Alessandro.
So even though we all agreed that these wines were not the perfect pairings, I did make some tasting notes of the four Bodega Otronia wines and the perfectly selected additional wines by the sommelier Alessandro:
The first course was a Ceviche of Dorade with a topinambur, yuzu and citrus dressing, one word only: exceptional.
The pairing was with the Otronia 45 Rugientes Corte de Blancas.
The blend: 48% Chardonnay, 27% Gewürztraminer, 26% Pinot Grigio
The wine by itself is very well balanced, it has light jasmine and floral notes, and some nuances of citrusy lime and grapefruit. On the palate, it presented a silky texture with a mineral finish.
The mineral finish reflects the toughness of the Patagonian terroir, though the acidity proved challenging when paired with the citrus-heavy Ceviche de Topinambur.
The second course was Vincunca Millefeuille with peruvian peppers, potatoes and furikake again beautiful, you wouldn’t believe this was made of potato.
The pairing was with Otronia Block I Pinot Noir.
Made from 100% Pinot Noir, an unearthly red with smells of raspberry and red cherry notes, mixed with forest floor tones and subtle spice.
The silky tannins added elegance, but the wine struggled to complement the complex flavors of the Vinicunca Millefeuille.
Alessandro suggested another option the Jardin Occulto, a Negro Criolla from 2022. Which was a perfect combination. I do understand him being chosen as sommelier of 2025!
The third course was Pesca y Mole indio, a firm South American fish with fig mole, samphire and aji.
The pairing here was with Otronia Block III & VI Chardonnay.
It was a 100% Chardonnay, had some zesty acidity, characteristic of fine cool-climate whites. Some white peach and green apple flavors and thyme and chamomile nuances, ending in a continuing smoky finish which reminded me of a Chablis.
The smoky, mineral-driven finish was impressive but didn’t quite harmonize with the rich, earthy tones of the fish.
The fourth course was the Chef’s Steak, black angus bavette, grilled lettuce, anticuchara souce, again to die for, beautifully prepared and delicious.
The last wine was tried with this: the Otronia 45 Rugientes Pinot Noir.
Again a 100% Pinot Noir, with smelled of red fruits, earthy undertones, and hints of spice with a silky, elegant finish. The wine offered great complexity with vibrant acidity.
Complex yet vibrant, but the pairing attempts with the Chef’s Steak felt somewhat mismatched and Alessandro agreed.
Recognizing the need for better synergy between the wines and the dishes, Sommelier Alessandro introduced additional wine selections. His deep understanding of both the wines and the cuisine led to alternative pairings that enhanced the overall dining experience. His adaptability and keen sense of taste were evident, providing a truly memorable experience. Thank you so much!
Conclusion
The evening at Nazka Amsterdam highlighted the complexities of wine pairing, especially when blending distinct culinary traditions. While Bodega Otronia's Patagonian wines shine in their own right, pairing them with Peruvian cuisine requires careful consideration. Sommelier Alessandro's adaptability and expertise ensured that guests experienced the best of both worlds, making the dinner a unique journey through the landscapes of flavor.