Le Macchiole: Pioneering Single-Varietal Excellence in Bolgheri

In the sun-drenched coastal region of Bolgheri, where Super Tuscans have rewritten Italian wine history, Le Macchiole stands as a testament to pioneering spirit and precision winemaking. Founded in 1983 by Eugenio Campolmi and Cinzia Merli, this iconic Tuscan winery has become synonymous with the Super Tuscan revolution, crafting wines that beautifully blend Italian tradition with modern innovation.

Recently, I had the privilege of delving deeper into Le Macchiole's world. Representing The Story Of My Wine, I attended a special lunch organized by Best Of Wines at the beautiful Restaurant Laage Vuursche. Gianluca Putzolu from Le Macchiole conducted a masterclass during this exclusive event, offering invaluable insights into their exceptional wines.

As the latest bottles were uncorked and Gianluca's storytelling filled the room, I was transported to the picturesque Etruscan Coast. Tasting through their remarkable lineup, I'm still processing the profound complexity and elegance that defines these wines. This firsthand experience has enriched my understanding and appreciation of Le Macchiole's craftsmanship, which I'm excited to share in this article. Thank you, Best Of Wines, for the invitation.

Winemaking philosophy of Le Macchiole

Le Macchiole's winemaking philosophy is rooted in a deep respect for terroir and a commitment to showcasing Bolgheri's unique character. Under the guidance of winemaker Luca Rettondini, the estate embraces organic farming and a bold approach to single-varietal wines. In a region known for blends, Le Macchiole stands out by crafting exceptional mono-varietal expressions of Cabernet Franc, Merlot, and Syrah.

This dedication to single-varietal wines allows each grape to truly shine, revealing the full potential of these international varieties when nurtured in Bolgheri's distinctive terroir. The winery's journey began in 1983 as a passion project to supply its restaurant and has been one of continuous exploration and refinement. As Gianluca explained, it took nearly a decade of experimentation with different varieties and techniques to find their unique path in winemaking.

Le Macchiole's biodynamic approach in the vineyard (though not in the cellar) further emphasizes their commitment to expressing site-specific character. This journey of discovery led them from initial experiments with Sangiovese, which proved premature for the region, to the international varieties that now define their identity and have established Le Macchiole as one of Bolgheri's most respected producers.

The Le Macchiole vineyard details

Le Macchiole's vineyards cover about 27 hectares, primarily planted with Cabernet Franc, Merlot, Syrah, and Cabernet Sauvignon. The nearby Tyrrhenian Sea significantly influences the terroir, with cool maritime breezes tempering the warm Mediterranean climate.

The soil composition is captivating—a blend of clay, sand, and gravel enriched with marine fossils. This unique terroir lends a distinct minerality and complexity to the wines. Le Macchiole practices meticulous vineyard management, including green harvesting and precise canopy control, to ensure their grapes achieve optimal ripeness and concentration.

Vineyard Practices: Where Tradition Meets Innovation

The coastal Bolgheri terroir boasts an ideal Mediterranean climate, with maritime influences that moderate temperatures and promote even ripening. What's particularly fascinating is Le Macchiole's meticulous mapping of vineyard sites to specific grape varieties, demonstrating an intimate understanding of how each grape responds to subtle variations in soil and exposure.

Le Macchiole's viticultural practices emphasize minimal intervention, allowing each variety to express itself authentically while upholding the highest quality standards. Their biodynamic approach in the vineyards underscores their commitment to both environmental stewardship and wine excellence.

The Wines: A Study in Varietal Expression

During lunch, we savored several wines while Gianluca Putzolu's commentary transformed the tasting into an immersive journey through Le Macchiole's winemaking philosophy. Their approach is noteworthy: all wines undergo cold fermentation, with recent experiments incorporating amphora fermentation for about 10% of the blend. Temperature-controlled concrete tanks ensure consistent fermentation temperatures throughout the vessel. Years of gentle pressing techniques help preserve the grapes' natural characteristics and freshness—a quality that, as Gianluca emphasizes, can only be maintained, never added.

Paleo Bianco 2021

• Appearance: Bright pale lemon with silver reflections
• Nose: Intense white peach aromas, Mediterranean herbs, and subtle saline notes
• Palate: Vibrant acidity and mineral-driven character with impressive length
• Quality: Outstanding—cold fermentation techniques have preserved remarkable freshness
• Food Pairing: Showed beautifully alongside the amuse of smoked halibut with shrimp and peas

Bolgheri Rosso 2021

• Appearance: Vibrant ruby with purple highlights
• Nose: Fresh red fruits, Mediterranean herbs, and subtle spices
• Palate: Medium-bodied with well-integrated tannins, showcasing excellent balance and approachability
• Quality: Very Good to Outstanding—an excellent introduction to the house style
• Food Pairing: Versatile; beautifully complemented the smoked eel with crème fraîche and herring caviar

Paleo Rosso 2019 (100% Cabernet Franc)

• Appearance: Deep ruby with purple highlights
• Nose: Complex bouquet of black fruits, tobacco, and Mediterranean herbs
• Palate: Full-bodied yet elegant, with refined tannins and impressive length
• Quality: Exceptional—showcases why this is their flagship wine
• Food Pairing: Perfectly complemented the pan-fried black pudding with scallops, braised spinach, and shellfish sauce

Scrio 2017 (100% Syrah)

• Appearance: Deep purple with inky black core
• Nose: Intense aromas of black pepper and dark fruits, with nuances of olive tapenade and violet blossoms
• Palate: Full-bodied with remarkable concentration, showcasing a harmonious balance of power and finesse
• Quality: Outstanding—exemplifies Syrah's potential in Bolgheri
• Food Pairing: The wine's complexity beautifully complemented the richness of the black pudding and scallop course

Messorio 2018 (100% Merlot)

• Appearance: Deep purple-ruby with an inky core
• Nose: Intense aromas of black cherry and ripe plum, with nuances of dark chocolate and exotic spices
• Palate: Opulent yet beautifully balanced, showcasing velvety tannins and remarkable depth
• Quality: Outstanding—exemplifies the aging potential of Bolgheri Merlot
• Food Pairing: Exceptional match with venison fillet, sauerkraut en croûte, and beetroot-cacao sauce

Messorio 2008 (100% Merlot)

A special treat was tasting the Messorio 2008, which showed remarkable evolution while maintaining freshness - a testament to their winemaking approach.

• Appearance: Deep garnet with subtle brick edges
• Nose: Complex bouquet of dried black fruits, leather, truffle, and delicate tobacco notes
• Palate: Perfectly evolved with silky tannins, exhibiting remarkable freshness for its age
• Quality: Outstanding—at its peak but with potential for further development
• Food Pairing: The wine's mature character complemented the sticky toffee pudding with butterscotch and caramel ice cream beautifully

Recent Developments

Le Macchiole continues to innovate while respecting tradition. They've recently begun experimenting with amphora fermentation for about 10% of their blends. Their temperature-controlled concrete tanks ensure consistent fermentation temperatures, while gentle pressing techniques preserve the grapes' inherent qualities.

Most intriguing is their focus on cold fermentation to preserve freshness. As Gianluca emphasized, "You can only maintain freshness, never add it." This philosophy guides their entire winemaking process.

Looking Forward

What impresses me most about Le Macchiole is its unwavering commitment to quality and drive to innovate. Its wines consistently earn scores between 96 and 99 points from Robert Parker, yet it remains focused on improvement rather than resting on its laurels.

For wine enthusiasts, Le Macchiole is an essential producer to follow. Their single-varietal approach offers a unique lens through which to understand both international grape varieties and the Bolgheri terroir. While their top cuvées command significant prices, they provide insight into what's possible when dedication meets exceptional terroir.

As I reflect on the tasting—paired with an exquisite meal featuring smoked halibut, eel with caviar, and black pudding with scallops—I'm struck by how these wines balance power with elegance. They're profound yet approachable, complex yet enjoyable—exactly what great wine should be.

Conclusion

Tasting through Le Macchiole's lineup, I'm struck by the consistent quality across the board. These wines beautifully capture Bolgheri's essence while showcasing each grape variety's distinct personality. For wine enthusiasts seeking the pinnacle of Super Tuscan winemaking, Le Macchiole offers a compelling and unique perspective.

Thanks to Best of Wines for the Tasting
Cudos: Le Macchiole