Exploring Priorat's Renaissance: A Masterclass with Clos de l'Obac and Its Exceptional Wines
15-10-2024As I prepare for an exclusive masterclass with Clos de l'Obac's owner, Guillem Pastrana, on behalf of The Story of My Wine, I'm struck by this winery's profound impact on Spain's wine landscape. Organized by Prioratwines, the event promises an extraordinary journey through their portfolio, expertly paired with exquisite dishes. Gazing at the deep garnet liquid in my glass, I'm reminded that this is more than just a tasting—it's an exploration of one of Priorat's most pivotal stories.
Introduction to Clos de l'Obac
Nestled in the rugged terrain of Catalonia's Priorat region, Clos de l'Obac stands as one of five pioneering wineries that spearheaded the area's remarkable renaissance in the 1980s. Located in the heart of this UNESCO World Heritage candidate region, the winery's dramatic terraced vineyards cling to steep slate slopes—a testament to both determination and vision.
Winemaking Philosophy
Under Guillem Pastrana's expert guidance, Clos de l'Obac remains steadfastly committed to expressing Priorat's unique terroir while seamlessly blending tradition with innovation. The winery's philosophy centers on achieving optimal grape ripeness through meticulous vineyard management, followed by careful vinification that allows each variety to fully express its character before the final blend.
What distinguishes their approach is a dedication to extended oak aging—12 to 15 months—while skillfully ensuring the wood enhances rather than masks the fruit and mineral characteristics that define these quintessential Priorat wines.
Vineyard Details
The estate's vineyards epitomize extreme viticulture. Planted on Priorat's renowned Llicorella soil—a blend of decomposed slate and quartz—the vines struggle to survive, yielding intensely concentrated grapes. This challenging terroir, combined with a Mediterranean climate moderated by altitude (300–600 meters), creates ideal conditions for a diverse array of grape varieties.
The vineyard showcases both traditional Priorat varieties (Garnacha and Cariñena) and international grapes (Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, and Syrah). For their white wines, they craft an intriguing blend using Garnacha Blanca, Macabeu, Xarel·lo, and Muscat d'Alexandria.
Wine Details
During this masterclass, I've tasted an exceptional range of Clos de l'Obac's wines. From their crisp whites to their robust reds and even a luscious dessert wine, each bottle showcases the unique terroir of Priorat. Let's explore this extraordinary lineup together:
Costers del Siurana - Kyrie 2023
- Composition: Precise blend of Garnacha, Macabeu, Xarel-lo, Muscat d'Alexandria
- Vinification: 6 months in new oak barrels
- Technical Notes: White wine showcasing the potential of Priorat's terroir
- Appearance: Brilliant pale gold with green highlights
- Nose: Complex aromatic profile combining white flowers, peach candies, Mediterranean herbs, and subtle oak-derived vanilla
- Palate: Full-bodied yet fresh, perfectly balanced between rich fruit, mineral notes, and integrated oak. Round medium acidity, youthful and vibrant with hints of green grass and vanilla. The wine's energy grows as it opens in the glass.
- Quality: Outstanding
- Food Pairing: Grilled seafood or rich poultry dishes
Costers del Siurana - Kyrie 2020
- Composition: Same classic blend of Garnacha, Macabeu, Xarel-lo, Muscat d'Alexandria
- Vinification: 6 months in new oak barrels
- Technical Notes: White wine showcasing evolution and complexity
- Appearance: Deep gold with brilliant clarity
- Nose: Mature notes of preserved citrus, honey, and toasted almonds
- Palate: Rich and complex with excellent tension between fruit and oak. Enhanced balance between fruit and aromatic ripe, rich flavors. Buttery and creamy with vanilla cookie notes. Acidity is more prominent and noticeable, adding excitement. A salty touch makes it feel more profound and more complex. The wine's energy and complexity require time to settle in the glass, allowing it to open up fully.
- Quality: Excellent
- Food Pairing: Roasted fish with herb butter or aged cheeses
Costers del Siurana - Usatges Negre 2021 Magnum
- Composition: Complex blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Cariñena, Garnacha Tinta, Merlot, Syrah, and Tempranillo
- Vinification: 12 months in oak vats
- Technical Notes: Red wine presented in magnum format
- Appearance: Deep purple with ruby rim
- Nose: Intense black fruits, red cherries, strawberries, with abundant freshness, bay leaf, Mediterranean herbs, and subtle spice
- Palate: Full-bodied with excellent structure and fresh acidity. Crisp and fruity with high tannins and medium-plus acidity. An elegant combination of wet stone and red clay flavors, beautifully complemented by smoky notes.
- Quality: Outstanding
- Food Pairing: Grilled red meats or wild mushroom dishes
Costers del Siurana - Miserere 2014
- Composition: Carefully selected blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Garnacha, Tempranillo, Cariñena, Merlot
- Vinification: 12 months in oak vats
- Technical Notes: Red wine showing perfect maturity
- Appearance: Deep garnet with slight evolution
- Nose: Complex bouquet of mature fruit, tobacco, and mineral notes
- Palate: Elegant and balanced with refined tannins, fris fruitig hout medium plus zuren hoog tannines aardbei framboos vers, cacao medium plus afdronk mineralen
- Quality: Outstanding
- Food Pairing: Slow-cooked game dishes
Costers del Siurana - Miserere 2005
- Composition: Same prestigious blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Garnacha, Tempranillo, Cariñena, Merlot
- Vinification: 12 months in oak vats
- Technical Notes: Library release showing beautiful evolution
- Appearance: Brick red with garnet core
- Nose: Tertiary aromas of leather, truffle, and dried fruits
- Palate: Silky texture with remarkable freshness for its age. Delightfully aromatic, ripe with notes of black cherry. Strawberry and bay leaf with a touch of oxidation, high alcohol content, slightly jammy, leaning towards marmalade. Orange and lime peel, wet stone, smoky, nutmeg, high acidity, high tannins. A warm glow yet very juicy—truly beautiful in the old Priorat style with its own identity. Compared to the 2014, this is very warm, round, and soft, whereas the 2014 is very fresh, fruity, and a bit harder. Both are well-balanced, but the 2005 has really used time to settle. The dried elements are more pronounced, though they're certainly present in the 2014 as well.
- Quality: Outstanding
- Food Pairing: Aged beef or mature cheeses
Costers del Siurana - Clos de l'Obac 2014
- Composition: Flagship blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Garnacha, Cariñena, Merlot, and Syrah
- Vinification: 15 months in oak vats
- Technical Notes: The estate's signature red wine
- Appearance: Deep ruby with purple highlights
- Nose: Intense black fruits, and espresso, with warm, rich, and mineral notes
- Palate: Powerful yet elegant with perfect balance. Warm, rich, and ripe with flavors of strawberry, black cherry, and blackberry. Notes of bay leaf, cocoa, and toasted wood complemented by vanilla and nutmeg. Elegant with high acidity and high tannins, beautifully balanced. Long finish with hints of wet stone and nutmeg, enveloping the palate like a warm, undulating blanket.
- Quality: Exceptional
- Food Pairing: Prime rib or lamb dishes
Costers del Siurana - Clos de l'Obac 2008
- Composition: Classic blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Garnacha, Cariñena, Merlot, and Syrah
- Vinification: 15 months in oak vats
- Technical Notes: Mature vintage showcasing exceptional development
- Appearance: Garnet with a slight brick-red edge
- Nose: Complex bouquet of mature fruit and leather, with juicy and rich aromas, a hint of ruggedness, and spicy notes
- Palate: Seamless integration of fruit and oak. Elegant and classic, with a beautiful raw edge. Ripe and rich, yet deeply balanced. Impressively fresh and juicy, with high acidity and high tannins. Truly gastronomic in nature.
- Quality: Exceptional
- Food Pairing: Slow-roasted lamb or game birds
Costers del Siurana - Dolç de l'Obac 2013
- Composition: Sweet wine blend of Garnacha, Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah
- Vinification: 12 months in oak vats
- Technical Notes: Dessert wine showcasing concentration and complexity
- Appearance: Deep ruby with purple hints
- Nose: Rich concentrated dark fruits, chocolate, and sweet spices
- Palate: Luxuriously sweet yet balanced with fresh acidity. Made in the style of red wine, fermentation is halted by freezing, resulting in higher residual sugar (60 grams) and 16.5% alcohol. This late-harvest wine is very ripe, with abundant mature red fruit and a touch of spiciness. The freezing process contributes to its high residual sugar content.
- Quality: Outstanding
- Food Pairing: Dark chocolate desserts or blue cheese
Recent Developments
The most exciting recent development is the impressive evolution of Clos de l'Obac's white wine program, particularly evident in the 2023 Kyrie release. The winery has also gained recognition for its commitment to sustainability, implementing solar power and water conservation measures across the estate.
Conclusion
Tasting through these wines, it's clear why Clos de l'Obac remains one of Priorat's most respected producers. The combination of thoughtful winemaking, exceptional terroir, and unwavering commitment to quality yields wines that transcend mere impressiveness—they're profound expressions of place.
For wine enthusiasts eager to understand Priorat's unique character, Clos de l'Obac offers an outstanding portfolio that showcases both power and precision. These wines undoubtedly merit a place in any serious collector's cellar.
I'm deeply grateful to Prioratwines for organizing this exceptional tasting event and inviting me to this extraordinary masterclass. Their efforts have enabled me to review these outstanding wines and gain invaluable insights.
Winery: website Clos de l 'Obac