Arlberg Weinberg symposium 2024
08-12-2024For thestoryofmywine, I was allowed to go to the Arlberg Weinberg symposium, organized by Wine+Partners. After a trip in which I have had almost all means of transport in Austria, the bus driver was kind enough to drop me off right in front of the hotel. From sunny Netherlands, to a fairytale scene in Lech. I stayed at hotel Sandhof and was completely pampered. This was a harbinger for the rest of the week, which was taken care of down to the last detail.
The first day started well with morning gymnastics on the slopes. Every morning you could go ‘skiing with Austrian wine' and you were allowed to hit the slopes with an Austrian winemaker or Master of Wine.
Day 1 - Sunday with Styrian Terroir und Klassikweingüter - Steiermark Matured
Time for the first tasting! For this I was allowed to take the skilift to Burg Hotel in Oberlech. Here we tasted the last vintages of the single vineyard wines, wines from Erste Lage and Grosse Lage of the Styrian Terroir und Klassikweingüter (STK). The STK is an association of 12 wineries that have committed themselves to a region-specific wine culture and to outstanding quality. The STK seal is a protected trademark and guarantees for Styrian wines of the highest quality level.
The tasting was more of a speed date with the wineries. In a short time 12 wines passed, so there was no time for a complete analysis. For me, it mainly helped to distinct the different terroirs and the wine styles of the makers. After this there was an extensive tasting, where the various winemakers presented several of their wines.
For me, the wines of Weingut Tement, Weingut Lackner-Tinnacher, Weingut Hannes Sabathi and Weingut Wohlmuth stood out. Sauvignon Blanc and Morillon (Chardonnay) were the most common. The Sauvignon blanc was very elegant, flawless and of very good quality. The Morillon also gives very nice wines in this area. From subtle to full with the use of new oak. There were two other aromatic varieties present; Riesling and Traminer.
What characterizes all of the wines above for me is the aroma of salty lemon and the high degree of minerality. This is the result of the diverse, originally volcanic soils. The vineyards are located on steep vineyards. Ried Edelschuh is even 90% steep.
In the evening the 'Steiermark Matured' dinner was scheduled.
The STK presented their treasures of the past 30 years. The wines from 1990 up to 2020 were accompanied by a typical Styrian menu, which was created by Sebastian Daeche of the Burg Hotel.
Each dish was accompanied by 3 wines from the STK, with an explanation from the winemaker why this wine was chosen.
For me the Ried Nussberg, Weissburgunder GSTK, Doppelmagnum, 1997, from Weingut Gross stood out. Which, despite its age, was still very lively and fruity and gave real depth to the dish. The balance and mouthfeel were very refined and the wine treated to a very long aftertaste. The winemaker explained that this wine he shared with us was the penultimate bottle of this wine. Very special!
An overview of the wines with dinner:
Starter
Venison carpaccio, porcini mushrooms, black salsify
2009 Ried Kirchleitn Sauvignon Blanc, Weingut Winkler-Hermaden, Doppelmagnum
2008 Ried Edelschuh Sauvignon Blanc, Weingut Wohlmuth, Doppelmagnum. The best pairing for me.
2007 Ried Kranachberg, Reserve Sauvignon Blanc, Weingut Hannes Sabathi. Nice pairing too.
Entrée
Strudel of monkfish and spinach, tomatoes, parmesan foam
2013 Ried Buch, Sauvingnon Blanc, Weingut Frauwallner, Doppelmagnum
2012 Ried Hochstermetzberg, Sauvignon Blanc, Weingut Maitz, Doppelmagnum
2010 Ried Hochgrassnitzberg, Sauvignon Blanc, Weingut Polz, Doppelmagnum
Main course
Poached veal fillet in herb coating, pumpkin tortellini, tobinambur cream, sauce malaise
2011 Merveillieux Chardonnay, Weingut Erwin Sabathi, Doppelmagnum
2006 Ried Pfarrweingarten, Morillon, Weingut Sattlerhof, Doppelmagnum
1997 Ried Nussberg, Weissburgunder, Weingut Gross, Doppelmagnum. The best pairing for me.
Dessert
Vorarlberger mountain cheese, picolin cheese, organic Paulus cheese, chutneys and spiced honey
2004 Ried Moarfeitl, Sauvignon Blanc GSTK, Weingut Neumeister, Magnum
2002 Ried Zieregg, Sauvignon Blanc GSTK, Weingut Tement, Doppelmagnum. The best pairing for me.
2001 Ried Welles, Sauvignon Blanc GSTK, Weingut LacknerTinnacher, Magnum
Day 2 - Monday - Tasting Sauvignon Blanc and Chardonnay & the annual Bottle Award
Monday was also dominated by Sauvignon Blanc and Chardonnay. What makes these varieties so special to Austria? Speakers Cokie Ponikvar, Patrick Schmitt MW, Aleksandar Zecevic (WineEnthusiast) and consultant and lecturer Willi Klinger explained.
Why Austrian Chardonnay?
- Climate: Austria’s temperate climate, with warm days and cool nights, allows Chardonnay to develop ripe flavours, and a full body while maintaining high acidity.
- Soils: The presence of limestone, slate, loess, and volcanic soils across different regions provides diversity and plays to a Chardonnay strength: the grape's ability to express terroir.
- Winemaking: Austrian winemakers are skilled at producing diverse styles, from unoaked and crisp to fuller-bodied, oak-aged versions.
- Regions: Styria: ‘mineral’, ‘elegant’ (Vulkanland and Südsteiermark); Burgenland fuller-bodied, richer styles. Also, Lower Austria, in places where one finds limestone and cooler climates.
Why Austrian Sauvignon blanc?
- Climate: Long growing seasons allow Sauvignon Blanc to develop full aromatic potential while maintaining crisp acidity.
- Soils: From limestone and marl to volcanic basalt and loess, brings diversity to Sauvignon Blanc expressions.
- Winemaking: Austrian winemakers are seemingly adept at crafting both classic, unoaked styles and more textured, barrel-fermented versions.
- Regions: Styria, particularly in Südsteiermark and Vulkanland Steiermark. Regions in Lower Austria and Burgenland also offer excellent potential.
Afterwards, the annual Bottle Award took place. Hotels in Lech were asked to send in their best Sauvignon Blanc. An international jury of wine experts were to decide which establishment in Arlberg had the best bottle in their cellar. My hotel eventually won with a wine from Tement Winery. A wine that I had also rated highly.
Weingut Tement, is a family business since 1959 with a love for wine, the special area and a commitment to unconditional quality. It is led by the brothers Armin and Stefan, who move with the times and have implemented their vision. And with success, what beautiful wines as a result! More than 15 years ago, they started taking the first steps towards organic farming. Nowadays they are biodynamic. For them, this is a logical step and they see their company as a form of modern circular economy, in which wine is part of the total concept. For example, they work together with (horse) farmers in the area and use their own forest to generate energy.
The winning Sauvignon Blanc was the Tement, Ried Zieregg, vinothek 2017. Ried Zieregg is the figurehead for this winery and is located between 350 and 490 meters altitude. A typical terroir-driven wine. An aromatic mineral wine full of ripe stone fruit and tropical fruit. But what stands out in particular is the almost perfect balance of complexity, tight acidity, influence of lie and the fine structure. In the very long finish, the typical aroma of salted lemon and a fine spiciness of sweet spices passed by. In short, a deserved winner.
Later that evening, at the invitation of the Austrian Wine Marketing, we were invited to join for dinner at Hotel Post. With each course there was a sparkling wine, a white wine and a red wine served. Nice pairing and also proof that any type of wine can be matched with a dish and can give a certain degree of tension.
Day 3 - Tuesday with the 'all about the water conference' & masterclass by Eisenberg DAC
This day was about water during 'the all about the water conference'. Speakers were Dr. Alain Deloire, Arianna Occipinti (winemaker in Sicily), Sarah Pérez (winemaker in Priorat) and UK writer Jamie Goode. A very interesting topic that gave more insight into the rhizomes and the importance of water. A vine cannot withstand drought, it hardly recovers due to a lack of water. In severe drought, it goes into dormancy or even dies. Over time the epigenetics changes and the vine adepts to the dry conditions, but not enough.
First of all, it is not self-evident that the rhizomes absorb water, minerals and nutrients. For this, the roots must be in good condition. Good soil is important, the presence of water, sugar and nitrogen. The correct method of pruning also contributes to this. What was new information for me is that all rhizomes continue to make new roots every year and that the best roots are present in the first 100 cm. In addition, the finest roots absorb water and minerals best.
Water is therefore important, but it must also be present. For this you initially dependent on rainfall, but what if this is not there (sufficiently)? Several techniques can be applied such as: Biodiversity, Canopy management or Shade cloths. What is also important is the presence of organic matter in the soil. This acts as a kind of sponge and retains the water. Another technique is Key line management, where the vines are not planted in straight lines. Instead, the direction of the water flow during rainfall is taken into consideration, or even trenches are dug to get as much water as possible to the vines.
In addition, agroforestry is applied. Trees are planted in the vineyards to generate shade. These trees retain water and the water evaporation of these trees gives some degree of cooling in the vineyards. These trees do not compete for water with the vines, as the roots go much deeper.
Sarah Pérez of Mas Martinet talked about the problems of drought she is facing in the Priorat region. She is very inventive and uses several different techniques. For example, she has buried the fleece of sheep in the vineyard. They act as a sponge and thus retain water. Another technique she told us about is covering the vineyards with straw. This keeps the temperature of the earth lower and she even noticed that it was a lot more humid underneath.
But all these techniques require some degree of rainfall. Otherwise, irrigation or irrigation for heath pikes can always be used. With the water shortage in the world, the question can be asked whether this technique should be applied, or should the geographical location of the vineyards perhaps be considered?
Later that afternoon there was a masterclass by Eisenberg DAC with Welschriesling and Blaufränkisch wines, followed by a dinner accompanied by the same varieties and a few of the winemakers, at hotel Die Krone von Lech.
Day 4 - Are Terroir and Naturaral wines diverging?
Unfortunately, this was already the last day. It was all about the ‘Are Terroir and Naturaral wines diverging?’ conference. Simon Woolf, Isabelle Legeron MW, Andreas Wickhoff MW, winemakers Sarah Pérez and Katharina Welcher took us through this.
An interesting topic for me, as I'm not a big fan of natural wines. I find the reductive, mousey smell particularly difficult.
Conventional wine as we know it from the shops is relatively new and originated around the 70s. 'Natural' wine with minimal additives and low intervention is centuries old. A certain image has emerged about this, but it is not only ‘Orange wines fermented with skin'. Isabelle Legeron says that wine drinkers are often used to rim-clean flavors. Natural wine is then an exciting adventure.
It starts with the cultivation of the vineyards, biodynamically. For example, creating more organic matter in the soil and using certain pruning methods. And during the winemaking process, the minimal intervention of the winemaker.
However, there is a lot of difference in quality, which gives a split. And expressing terroir is a lot more difficult, but is this a problem? Terroir is changing everywhere, how important is it to have a 'recognizable' wine? And why are there two camps? Ultimate goal should be; good wine. Also in hard circumstances. Perhaps more can be learned from each other. But should it be completely without intervention? There is still a lot to be gained on that matter. I had hoped for a bridge from conventional to natural wines, but for me this bridge has not yet been made.
In the afternoon there was a tasting with Aleks Zecevic (WineEnthusiast) about Austrian Alternative wines. We tasted 15 wines: sparkling, white and red. I have to admit that there were very nice wines among them. For me, the following wines stood out:
White
- Von der Vogelwiede : "Tandarai" 2022. Made of Grüner Veltliner in Wachau. One of the wines that makes 'both camps' happy. 12 months barrique at full lies, spontaneous fermentation, production of 750 bottles per year. Beautiful complex wine, especially the salty taste and the use of wood stands out.
- Aqualeiten: "Wabi Sabi" 2022. Made from Riesling in Wachau. Half of the grapes are stamped with their feet. After this, use of 700 and 300 liter barrels. At bottling, 35mg of sulphite is added. It is a tight, crispy wine despite undergoing malolactic fermentation. The acids stay upright.
Red
- Rosi Schuster, Sankt Laurent, ried Zagersdorf 2022, Burgenland.
Has a bit of bret due to long skin contact, but this is nice. The wine was not bottled until 2024. A refined wine, full aroma of dark fruit and a little wood due to used oak, chocolate and coffee. A fresh elegant finish with ripe tannins. - Johannes Trapl, Blaufränkisch, ried Prellenkirchen, Spitzerberg 2020. A very fresh wine with lots of cassis and cassis leaf. It was decided to use the stems, this is well reflected in the wine. The wine has a very nice nose, a real natural character, but this is not disturbing. The wine is complex, fruity and high in acidity. There is a small bitterness at the end of the long finish. In principle, they do not use any additives, only sulphite when it is really necessary.
- Weniger “Say” Blaufränkisch 2021. Nice terroir driven wine. As you read earlier, this is difficult to achieve in a natural wine. A spicy, aromatic wine with body and a bit of earthiness. It is very complex and keeps on coming in layers, with beautiful tannins to give it the body it needs.
As ending we had a fondue in the Hospiz Alm. The adventure started with a tour of the cellars. They are known for the cellars full of "Big Bottles". And I mean really big, even plenty of Primats are present. This is a bottle of 27 liters, or 36 ‘normal’ bottles. This made quite the impression I can tell you! It was followed by a very pleasant evening and I was lucky with many great table companions. A few of the winemakers we met during the days, presented their bottles at the table. A great way to end five exciting days!
What an experience this trip to Lech was. I met a lot of nice people and learned so much. I already had a preference for Austrian wines and this has only grown.
Thank you so much!
Wine+Partners
Arlberg Weinberg
Hotel Sandhof