Grüner Veltliner, Am Berg, Wagram, Austria, 2017
Bernhard Ott, Grüner Veltliner, Am Berg, Wagram, Austria, 2017 (TSW87).
Author: Cees van Casteren MW
Wagram received its new name in 2007, previously known as Donauland. The almost 3,000 ha are planted in two distinct zones; one to the north and one to the south of the Danube River. Ott is situated in the northern part, which is a striking terrain that stretches some 30km along the northern bank of the river as far as Kamptal.
Bernhard Ott has changed the domaine in two ways since he inherited it from his father in 1991: he expanded it and contracted more fruit; and converted it to organic. In the meantime, he is in conversion from organic to bio-dynamic. Am Berg is his entry level Grüner, designed for immediate pleasure (which it gives), fruit driven with fresh acidity.
My tasting notes:
Straw yellow color with greasy tears.
Richly varied nose with impressions of fresh melon, yellow apple, peach and white pepper.
Followed by an equally rich mouthfeel, minerally refined, with lots of white fruits, citrus and that recognizable spicy touch of white pepper. Lots of freshness in the finish. The spicy character of Grüner makes it an ideal compagnon at the dinner table. Poultry, veal and sole.